Propriety
A red plastic basket on the table, and in it a flame-grilled burger, threatening in its state of unembarrassed greasiness to go soggy on me in a now-or-never sort of way. I can hear it pleading. Eat me. Eat me along with these thinly sliced, crispy fried potato wedges, and besmear us all with splotches of Tabasco, of Heinz, of sour cream, while you’re at it.
The cheese on the edges of the buns drips, but not with sarcasm. Rather, with a similar desperate urgency, melting, wooing, as though disinterest, or anything else which might cause further delay of its voyage to the inside of me, through my digestive tract and beyond, would spell for the cheese the hellish fate of being haplessly, irredeemably glued to noisy paper wrap.
Outside the diner the sun is a menace, slapping its hard light and hard heat on the hard street of Pearl Drive. It’s no wonder that a glass of lemon iced tea rests too on the table, beside the napkins. The iced tea is described in the menu as ‘bottomless’, an adjective that must have been coined for just this kind of weather, for just these kinds of times, when tree shades become refuge, and armpits seep plaintively, and throats go parched, and traffic inspires bumper flirtation, and tempers rise, and wretched, loud-mouthed college students from what my brother Francis once called “The University of the Affluent and the Privileged” come in through the glass door, in their mint-condition Nikes, in their flannel wardrobe, with their iPhones, in their full one-thousand-peso-daily-school-allowance glory, laughing and talking about LeBron James, computer games, and their coeds as though these are a matter of national security, or the funniest joke ever told. Their noise makes being inside Hotshots kind of like being in a school bus, even though these boys will probably never ride a school bus in their lives.
Take a sip now, will you kindly. Take a sip of my lemony goodness before it condenses to mere beads of dew, which, like moisture above your upper lip, you can only wipe with your hands. Take a sip before these beads trickle funnily down the glass and onto fake mahogany.
This is, of course, a burger joint. Obnoxiousness is slightly less unforgivable. At a place like Katrê, a “Mediterranean fusion” restaurant, which glows despite being tucked in the shadows of an unassuming Quezon City side street, and where you are regaled with the lovely heaviness of earthenware and where waiters wheel the wine trolley next to your table, and where it would be rather nice to talk about things like the intellectual speculations of Montaigne or the insufferable narrow-mindedness of people who are against the proposed reproductive health bill, yes, at a place like that, you might be expected to afford a little bit of propriety. And yet, and yet, as I wait for the arrival of my pork belly, which in the menu is described as “meltingly tender”, I cannot help but notice this, this man to my left. He is wearing a baseball cap, tilted; a basketball armband, unwashed; a pair of baggy jeans, very baggy; and a scowl, the kind that only the truly glamorous can get away with. This man is not truly glamorous, and in fact, while he is tailored to look like Chris Brown with an Asian beard, both his choice of footwear and his table manners render unavoidable my wishing that I was seated elsewhere. Not that I am a snob (not always); but one must care about these things, at the right place and at the right price.
Pita bread – bruised from grilling – is placed on the table, hostaged to a gang of three sexy dips, more than half of them exotic-sounding: hummus-bi-tahini, baba ghanoush, and yogurt and cucumber. These audacious meze dishes make the bread’s beaten pallor even more pathetic; they come in colors that evoke a lot of spring, a bit of autumn, and other shades of loveliness; it is these very colors that make the plate a smorgasbord, a delightful microcosm of all things you want to touch and taste. Go on, they seemed to say. Take your pick. Violate the chastity – the stupid purity – of this bread and smother it with our epicurean boldnesses.
Meanwhile, it is turning out to be quite a beautiful evening. The sky is Facebook blue and riddled with stars, and it’s hard to not officially like the way it appears in the second-storey glass window, which is to say: clearly, and darkly, like a calm moonlit ocean; I just know that if I go down the stairs and step outside I would feel the soft, cooler-than-usual breeze that, for the notoriously eager Manileños, gently marks the official beginning of Christmas; it is the same late November breeze that stirs the leaves on the sidewalk and sweeps the abandoned receipts off the ATM machines. Off they fly and there they go, like feathers from a wing, landing anticlimactically on pavement, on top of bushes, in puddles of sewage water, or in the society of cigarette butts.
As for my receipts, well – I have no interest in leaving trails of my fiscal inferiority, thank you.
At the far end of the restaurant, by the sliding doors that lead to a balcony and the smoking area, is a long dinner table occupied by a group of young men and women, none of them with shirts that have collars. They look Chinese. They drink more than they eat, they talk more than they drink, they shout more than they talk, and they photograph themselves more than they shout. There are flashes of lightning in the room; resounding roars of laughter; the ominous formation of two-fingered peace signs; the varied sounds of siren for phone calls and text messages; and the inappropriately bubblegum mirth of semi-fine diners. I remind myself that I was young once, too, and it is at this instant that I remember how, if I did so much as rest an elbow on the table, my father would let me know.
The meltingly tender pork belly arrives, its braised flesh laying exposed on top of a hill of white rice. It has given up. It has surrendered. And it aches, being seen like this, being surrounded and humiliated like this, in a veritable forest of bay leaves, star anise, garlic strings, and onion. I show no mercy and mutilate the pork belly with my dinner knife, pierce its parts with my dinner fork, and eat it, every fucking bit of it, with what must be fury, or satisfaction, or a dangerous combination of both.
Chris Brown with an Asian beard suddenly rises to his feet and walks across the room. He approaches a waiter who is pouring a glass of water from a stainless steel pitcher. They sort of talk, sort of conspiratorially, and then Mr. Brown inserts his hand into the waiter’s back pocket.
A tip.















